Monk’s Red Light Mussels
Ever have a sour beer? Not one that’s gone bad, but a beer that’s brewed that way? It’s quite distinctive, deriving its sourness from lactic acid. Monk’s offers a Flemish sour ale that is made for them in Belgium. On first taste, the sourness is surprising, but it grows on you. It pairs especially well with the restaurant’s specialty, steamed mussels, which come in a variety of preparations. All the mussels are cultivated in the cold waters of Nova Scotia. The dish pictured above is the Red Light Mussels steamed in Belgian witbier (white ale), fumé blanc, toasted chile de arbol peppers, chervil and garlic. The mussel meat was small (the way I like them) and perfectly cooked, if somewhat gritty. All the mussel dishes come with Belgian fries, cut small and twice-fried for crispiness, accompanied by a tasty bourbon mayonnaise. A single roll is also provided for sopping up the delicious broth.
264 S 16th St
Carmen’s Super Italian hoagie
The hoagies of Philadelphia are justifiably famous. The sheer number of restaurants that serve them keeps the competition high. Besides Chickie’s, Carmen’s is a local favorite. I ate one of their sandwiches on our last trip to Philadelphia and was impressed. I ordered the same hoagie again, the Super Italian, filled with sweet sopressata, capocola, mortadella, tomatoes, onion, lettuce, and roasted spicy peppers, whose fire sort of sneaks up on you. The bread here was light, yet wonderfully crispy and seeded on the outside. I much preferred the bread here than at Chickie’s, which uses Sarcone’s. Here, on some sandwiches you can also add “extras” like sharp Provolone and broccoli rate, Philly favorites.
Carmen’s Italian Hoagies
51 N 12th St
Philadelphia, PA 19107
Between Arch St & Filbert St
Tommy Di Nic’s is another hoagie stand (Reading Terminal Station in Philadelphia) that appears on many favorite lists. They specialize in roast beef and roast pork, as well as pulled pork. I got the roast pork, plentiful slices that were piled into a light, crispy roll, mounded with sautéed broccoli rabe and sharp Provolone, and finally finished with pork gravy. This was a superb sandwich, with ingredients that typify the hoagie made in this part of the country (including Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Delaware).
Adam Richman ate and praised this sandwich on his Man v. Food show back in 2009 (Season 2).
Roast pork with sharp provolone and broccoli rate. Photo borrowed from yelp.com (Cynthia L)
Reading Terminal Market
1136 Arch Street
12th and Arch streets
Philadelphia, PA 19107
Chickie’s veggie hoagie
Chickie’s is one of many restaurants in Philadelphia that make Italian hoagies. The veggie and tuna sandwiches are their two famous specialties. The vegetarian in particular has received several awards and media recognition. Chickie’s claims that even blue collar workers can’t resist it. Roasted red bell pepper, baked eggplant and sauteed broccoli rabe are nestled in a sliced and lightly toasted bread made by Sarcone’s, a long-time bakery in the Italian shopping district. Grated sharp Provolone and a vinaigrette dressing round out this delicious sandwich. I found that the bread suffers from a somewhat dense and chewy texture, like a baguette, with the result that biting into it causes the filling to be squeezed out at the opposite end. Other than that, this is a noteworthy hoagie. The tuna sandwich (featuring oil-packed tuna, which is much more flavorful than water-packed) will have to wait for another visit.
Chickie’s Italian Deli
1014 Federal Street
Within a few blocks of our daughter and son-in-law’s house is Mercato, a restaurant that draws inspiration from Italian and Italian-American cooking. It’s nestled in a tiny space on Spruce near 12th, but the cheerful saffron yellow walls make it feel more expansive. Our daughter brought along an Italian soave because of a BYOB policy observed by many Philadelphia restaurants.
The evening got started with spectacular antipasti, Mercato’s splendid version spread with grilled and marinated vegetables, bocconcini, a sampling of cured olives, crostini topped with diced tomato, slivered basil and red onion, and thinly sliced soppressata artfully folded to suggest a flower.
Another appetizer was a spot-on grilled artichoke accompanied by a citrus aioli. The grilling intensified the vegetable’s flavor.
Grilled artichoke with citrus aioli
Three pan seared diver scallops were served on a bed of mushroom and English pea risotto, topped with a Parmesan crisp. As if that weren’t enough, the entire dish was drizzled with truffle oil. The scallops were crisply browned but still sweet and succulent. An excellent entrée.
Pan Seared Diver Scallops
Ricotta gnocchi were served with long-braised, fork-tender short ribs, broccoli rabe and locatelli cheese, and bathed in a fresh tomato sauce.
Short rib ragu
You know it’s was winning restaurant when it was hard to say which entrée was our favorite.
1216 Spruce Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
I was surprised to learn that there was a museum here in Philadelphia of Auguste Rodin’s works, thinking that most, if not all, of the originals would be in Paris. This belief is based on a misunderstanding of how Rodin worked. He often made plaster casts of his sculpture to be used to make replicas in bronze. To preserve their value, only limited numbers of pieces were ever made. Thus, there are other museums of Rodin’s works.
The Thinker, Rodin’s most recognizable bronze sculpture, sits outside the Rodin Museum. The Philadelphia museum houses the largest collection of his sculpture outside France. Though the building is quite small, there are over 100 of Rodin’s pieces here.
Rodin’s (in)famous sculpture is The Kiss, which is also widely recognizable as one of his enduring and erotic works. There is a copy of it, actually done for the museum by Henry Gréber. Another marble sculpture of an embracing couple is Eternal Springtime, a bronze casting of which also stands nearby.
Rodin’s most ambitious work is The Gates of Hell, a bronze door that recreates themes from Dante’s Divine Comedy. It can be seen in the portico as you approach the front of the museum. Several of Rodin’s most famous sculptures were inspired by smaller versions of them on the door, such as The Thinker and The Kiss.
Gates of Hell