Devil’s Churn, Cape Perpetua

One of the most thrilling shows along the Oregon coast is the Devil's Churn, part of the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. At high tide, or better yet when there is a windstorm, waves of water come crashing through a narrow chasm fractured out of the basalt. As you can imagine, under "ideal" conditions, great plumes... Continue Reading →

Heceta Head Lighthouse

The morning was foggy when we drove past Yachats, not unusual for the coastlines of Oregon and northern California. We stopped at Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint to admire the lighthouse, one of nine along the Oregon coast. From the parking area, we could see it perched on Heceta Head, shrouded in fog. Despite... Continue Reading →

Cobra Lily—Darlingtonia Californica

I had been under the impression that the only carnivorous plant in the U.S. was the Venus flytrap, which thrives in East Coast wetlands. That's before I learned of another insect-eating plant, Darlingtonia californica, more commonly known as the cobra lily, that is found mostly in boggy, acidic wetlands in southern Oregon and northern California.... Continue Reading →

Return to Sharks (Newport, OR)

The best cioppino we had ever eaten was had at Sharks Seafood Bar back in 2009. Not only was there a substantial broth of tomatoes, vegetables and herbs—a recipe which the chef will not divulge—but a generous serving of fresh seafood. A noticeable amount of sweetness, which some may find a trifle much, came through... Continue Reading →

A Day in Newport, Oregon

Back in 2009, Newport appeared on our culinary radar when we ate a remarkable cioppino at Sharks Seafood Bar. It would be enough of a reason to come back again (and again). Aside from its many seafood restaurants, this town of 10,000 residents has several other attractions. The most obvious physical presence in the city... Continue Reading →

Fried Razor Clams at Dooger’s (Cannon Beach, OR)

I thought that the prohibition against abalone fishing in California many years ago would spell the end to the most delicious mollusk steak ever to cross my lips. I remember when I was a kid, my father, brother and I went fishing for them around Monterey where my father grew up. My mother would steam... Continue Reading →

Three Graces (Tillamook Bay, OR)

Sea stacks, those lonely rock sentinels off the coast that punctuate the seascape, are Oregon's distinctive shoreline features that draw admiring tourists and photographers. They are the remnants of millions of years of erosion of headlands that have unevenly given way to the forces of water. They are no more picturesque than the Three Graces... Continue Reading →

Hug Point (Cannon Beach, OR)

Hug Point used to be used as a trail by stagecoaches. Its name derives from how closely the carriages had to "hug" the point, even at low tide, to get around. Now it is part of a state recreation site for public day-use. The tide was getting higher when we arrived, still low enough that... Continue Reading →

Haystack Rock (Cannon Beach, OR)

Being the largest sea stack off the coast of Oregon, Haystack Rock stands like an intertidal sentinel just south of Cannon Beach and is responsible for much of the tourist industry here. We approached it from the south on foot, after parking our car in a neighborhood and finding a public access path to the... Continue Reading →

Dinner at Pirate’s Cove (Garibaldi, OR)

Whenever on the Oregon coast, we seek out fried razor clams, especially in season. Down the street from our lodging (Garibaldi House) was Pirate's Cove, a seafood restaurant that happened to have the clams on their regular menu but featured them on the specials board as well. The menu has a long list of seafood... Continue Reading →

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