Fried Razor Clams at Dooger’s (Cannon Beach, OR)

I thought that the prohibition against abalone fishing in California many years ago would spell the end to the most delicious mollusk steak ever to cross my lips. I remember when I was a kid, my father, brother and I went fishing for them around Monterey where my father grew up. My mother would steam and slice them, and we would enjoy them dipped in soy sauce. Later, as an adult, seafood restaurants in Southern California would serve them fried as steaks. I loved, absolutely loved these. Then, because overfishing depleted the abalone stock, the ban in California happened and I was not a happy camper.

Fast forward to when my family moved up to the Northwest. The first time I sampled fried razor clams, the taste brought back memories of those blissful Southern California days. This is not to say that razors taste exactly like abalones, but their unique flavor reminds me of them in some big way. Dooger’s serves them to perfection at each of its three locations in Oregon (Seaside, Warrenton and here in Cannon Beach) and one in Washington (Long Beach). The clam really doesn’t need any sauce, either the catsup or tartar sauce that come with any order.

As with any mollusk, they don’t require much cooking. Pan-frying them just needs but a few minutes. Beyond that, they can become rubbery, vulcanized. Dooger’s does a fine job; you have the option of having them sautéed instead.

Note: since I wrote this, the Cannon Beach location has closed its doors. Service continues at Seaside and Warrenton in Oregon and Long Beach in Washington.