The Valley Temple and Osireion: Echoes of a Bygone World Culture?

Seeing is believing. It was deja vu all over again, as a famous American Yogi once said. I gawked at the Valley Temple of Khafre in Giza and the Osireion in Abydos. Though they are in Egypt, they reminded me of monuments I saw in Peru, halfway round the world. Cyclopean blocks of unadorned stone... Continue Reading →

Temple of Karnak (Luxor)

The Temple of Karnak in Luxor rivals an amusement park in size. The grounds are so big that it can easily surround the great cathedrals of Europe: Notre Dame, St. Peter's, Milan and more. Started in the Middle Kingdom and added to over a period of 2,000 years into Ptolemaic times by thirty pharaohs, it... Continue Reading →

Curiosities of the Temple of Seti I (Abydos, Egypt)

The hypostyle halls were the first I saw in Egypt. For that reason, the Temple of Seti I will have a special place in my memory. What for me conjures up ancient Egypt as much as the Giza Plateau are these halls and their towering and beautifully inscribed columns, bathed in mysterious, diffuse light. Seti... Continue Reading →

Cruising the Nile in Egypt

It was almost dusk when we arrived at Luxor Airport from Cairo. The Temple of Luxor was illuminated by the time we got to the hotel. The city was the start of our journey up the Nile to see the temples and tombs of New Kingdom and Ptolemaic pharaohs. (When I say "up the Nile,"... Continue Reading →

Morocco Recapitulation and Final Thoughts

This is my last post on Morocco. The writing material the country provides is inexhaustible because, to me as a Westerner, it's different in ways cultural, linguistic and religious, reasons I find Morocco so fascinating. I'll conclude by writing down some loosely related thoughts and observations that together have contributed to my understanding of what makes... Continue Reading →

The Delight of Staying in Moroccan Riads

When traveling, I'm not particularly interested in staying at hotels. I don't look for a spa experience, 24-hour fitness center, or concierge services. I don't book stays at the Marriotts, Hiltons, Hyatts, Radissons and such, never mind luxury hotels like The Four Seasons. Yes, they're elegant, clean, sleek, efficiently run, and have marvelous guest services,... Continue Reading →

Are Moroccan Carpet Makers Getting Fleeced?

"We don't have room for any." That's what I told the salesman more than once at a licensed carpet dealer in Fes. He was showing us Moroccan rugs. My wife and I were taken there by our local guide. There might've been a kickback involved. "I want you to know that we have no intention... Continue Reading →

Images to Remember Morocco By

This post has only images. They reflect the personal wonder and beauty I felt about Morocco's diverse landscape, architecture, craft and food. They were photographed in and around Casablanca, Rabat, Chefchouen, Volubilis, Meknes, Fes, Erfoud, Erg Chebbi (Sahara), Todra and Dades Gorges, Skoura, Taroudant, Essaouira, Marrakech and El Jadida. (Click on the first to start... Continue Reading →

White Storks of Morocco

I'm not a birder. But when an interesting bird appears in my travels, I take note and try to find out a bit more about it. In several places throughout Morocco, I saw the white stork (Circonia circonia) that builds its large nest in high places, atop roofs, walls, even ancient Roman columns. The one... Continue Reading →

Follow Your Nose—the Scents of Morocco

I experienced Morocco through my nose. Not intentionally. It just happened. Morocco’s scents and aromas accumulated in my mind subconsciously until it dawned on me that smelling should be as important as seeing to have an appreciation for the country. It started with mint tea, the beverage that Moroccans drink in gobs. It’s consumed as... Continue Reading →

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